On Neutering and Spaying

On Neutering and Spaying

So here is a touchy subject so I feel the need to preface this by saying I am not saying those who do or do not neuter/spay their dogs are right or wrong. I am simply putting my own opinion out there and giving information I have learned over the years which has influenced this opinion. I encourage everyone to do what is responsible and inform themselves before making any medical choice for their pets and to get opinions from your vet (and even multiple vets). Go over information and get in touch with many people to see their thoughts on your options.

Here is my opinion. We neuter and spay our animals as an easy escape of responsibility. There are many people who have intact animals (those who retain their hormones and sexual organs) who have never bred them and who do not plan on breeding. There is nothing wrong with these people and they are not being “irresponsible” by not spaying or neutering. Some could say that in fact they are being more responsible because their dogs have the capability of breeding but do not, meaning their owners have to enact more control and conscious supervision over their animals.

Firstly, it is standard to spay and neuter dogs very early in their lives and by doing so we open them up to countless problems which they will have to face for the rest of their lives. In neutered males alone they are 3 times more likely to be plagued with obesity. In spayed females they are 2 times as likely to be obese. Likelihood of your neutered pet developing Hip Dysplasia, Hemangiosarcoma (a very deadly form of cancer),  Hypothyroidism, Geriatric Cognitive Impairment (a type of dementia for pets), Ligament Rupture, and Osteosarcoma (bone cancer) are all increased, particularly when the neutering is done before they have fully developed physically and mentally. Likelihood of your spayed pet developing all of these problems as well as Urinary Incontinence, Dermatitis, Vaginal Infections, or Urinary Tract Infections are also increased, again especially when the spaying is done before they have fully developed.

Secondly, if you wanted to remove the possibility of your dog impregnating another, or becoming pregnant themselves, there are alternatives which allow them to keep their sexual hormones which not only affect their behavior, but assist in their development. Imagine a human child who had their sexual hormones removed before puberty and before they’d developed physically and mentally. They would not be a “normal” adult human. Why are we content with animals being trapped in an eternal prepubescent state? These alternatives are many but two common ones are not abnormal to us. They are tubal ligation’s (having ones “tubes tied”) for females and vasectomy’s for males. These remove the possibility of breeding from the dogs, yet allows them to retain their hormones, thus allowing them to develop naturally and not have the high likelihood of diseases and problems which are known to be tied to having these hormones removed.

There are some who look at these facts who still state that the “risks” associated do not outweigh the benefits of neutering, but I would be quick to state that since one of the biggest benefits is to you and not your dog (the fact that they now cannot possibly be bred) that it should not be included in any sort of pro/con situation. Rather, simply looking at the health benefits versus the health risks, and also factoring in that this is an optional unnecessary procedure which includes anesthesia which is always a risk, one must very carefully determine what they are to do.

Personally, this is the main reason why I will not adopt a dog from a standard shelter. Many refuse to release a dog, regardless of age, to anyone before they are spayed or neutered. This means that even puppies as young as 8 wks are neutered or spayed. Instead I will work with a responsible breeder who understands my fears associated with this procedure and who is willing and happy to allow me to keep a dog under an alternative to spay/neuter if not completely intact.

Adopting a Puppy – Age Matters!

Adopting a Puppy – Age Matters!

Recently my very best friend added a beautiful coonhound named Merlin to her family, consisting of herself, her boyfriend, a loving young pit-mix, and a young cat. I was ecstatic, knowing that they had been looking for a puppy for a while.

There was one problem though, and she knew that was the case. This puppy was only 6 weeks old. Why was my friends 6 week old puppy a problem?

In an ideal situation would be to take the puppy sometime between 10 and 12 weeks, though if you’re picking them up later you would want for there to have been many interactions between you and the pup so you aren’t a completely new person. At the very least you should pick up your puppy when they are 8 weeks. This is because in this time your dog is learning about him or herself, about dogs, and about proper interactions. Your puppy will learn from his mother, his litter-mates, and from the other people and animals in his breeders household.

There is no benefit from separating a dog from its family unit early. There is nothing to gain from it. The breeder is the only one who might gain anything early because they get money from the dog early, and don’t have to spend money feeding those puppies an extra couple weeks. For a breeder to do this is not only unethical, but is in ignorance, irresponsibility, and at the very worst is out of greed. If a breeder gives puppies up before they are eight weeks old, or refuses to keep a puppy until it is eight weeks old then you should walk away. Along the same lines, if the mother is no longer able to interact with or is no longer on site with the puppies you should also walk away.

The steps a litter goes through are roughly these:

  1. Birth – 2 Weeks: No expectations. Nurse, Sleep, eliminate by mothers encouragement.
  2. 2 – 3 Weeks: Eyes and ears open. First chance to be aware of surroundings via more than touch and smell.
  3. 3-16 Weeks: Socialization Period. Begin interacting with surroundings.
    1. 6-12 Weeks: Critical Period. When dogs develop social skills. 50% of the dogs eventual temperament will be developed during this time. Incorrect social behavior is tolerated mildly but corrected.
  4. 13 Weeks – 6 Months: Beginning of adulthood. Incorrect social behavior no longer tolerated by other dogs.

In the first two weeks of a dogs critical socialization period some very important things happen. At this time the dogs are fully weaned and will not be nursing from the mother, but it is vital that they still be interacting with her. This is because she is the key figure in their lives and she will now be teaching them proper social behavior. Before now she allowed them the climb on her, nibble her, chew her, and even possibly hang from her ears or tail by teeth. Now, she will physically show them that the behavior they used to get away with is not appropriate and will not be tolerated. She will yelp when they nip her to show them that nibbling and biting is only tolerated so far. She will enforce rules and show them what is and what isn’t good behavior. The mother is the first one to show them they are no longer babies and that they are expected to behave, and what behaving means.

As mentioned above, it’s during this time that about half of the dogs eventual temperament is developed. This is because the puppies will learn that there is a hierarchy to things, that there are things expected of them. Not only will their mother teach them what they can and cannot get away with, but their siblings will do the same. We have all seen puppies rough-house and then hear one yelp and the playing stop. This is so important as this teaches dogs not only when they’ve gone too far, but also helps teach them the signs and signals that other dogs will give off when they’re reaching the line or need a break.

Dogs who are separated from their litter and from their mother before this happens are effectively socially and emotionally crippled. They aren’t given the opportunities to learn what is and isn’t acceptable social behavior and because of that are more likely to over stimulate others, or go too far when “playing”.

They are also more likely to become fearful in new situations as they have no experience truly interacting with their surroundings. Because of this they can go into these new situations and become fear-biters or fear-aggressive. These dogs are not angry or mean, but they will view new experiences as attacks and react by defending themselves. Dogs separated too early from their mothers and siblings are usually ones who will over or under react to dogs because they never learned how to read calming or stress signals in others. This usually causes many fights to happen and can cause your dog to develop more phobias and fears.

Other problems which people might experience from dogs who they get from a breeder too early can be health related. In the extra time with their litter and their mother the puppy will be protected and learn self-soothing techniques which can help them in situations of anxiety or overstimulation. If they don’t get this they are more prone to separation anxiety which because of the stress hormones released can very negatively affect your dogs long-term health. They can also have more difficulty with weight gain and growth in their lifetimes. They will be more prone to illnesses and health problems throughout their lives and they usually have a higher mortality rate than is the norm for their breeds.

Overall, there is no benefit in separating a dog from its mother or siblings early and there are many negatives that would otherwise be avoided.

When getting a puppy always know that your breeder is doing everything that is best for their dogs. This includes things like health checks and not over-breeding, but it also includes simple things like keeping a litter together for a responsible amount of time, at least 8 weeks. If a breeder has beautiful dogs but does not do this, walk away.

In the case of little Merlin, my friend’s new pup, we’re moving forward. The breeder did do wrong by the pup by separating him from his litter and his mother at that age and more knowledge about the outcomes could have helped all involved, but what’s done is done. All I can hope is that by letting more people know why early separations are horrible for the dogs and why you should always completely look into a situation before getting a new dog from a breeder, or from anywhere, I can help dogs in the future avoid this situation.

Why Breed Matters When Choosing a Dog.

Why Breed Matters When Choosing a Dog.

As many can tell from my previous posts and articles, I am a big proponent of responsible dog breeding and of purebred dogs. This is not because I for any reason dislike or don’t trust shelter dogs or the shelters themselves, though some shelters have been shown to be doing very negative things in the recent past. This is simply because I believe that responsible breeders will last.

If responsible ownership is encouraged and enforced I would love to see a world where responsible breeders, whether they produce purebred or mixed breed, are the way to get pets. I would love to see a future where shelters are a thing of the past because there are few to no unwanted or homeless pets. Shouldn’t this be what we aim for?

Regardless of this ideal future, people do get their dogs from many sources and no matter where they choose the breed of a dog is always a factor.

Some might say that this isn’t the case, especially with mixed breed dogs. I however beg to differ. It has been my experience that many dog – person relationships could experience a significant change if the person takes into account the breed when not only bringing home a dog, but when training or interacting with them as well.

Here’s what I mean by this.

Certain dog breeds were and are bred or created for specific purposes. Dogs who are known as being destructive, loud, or difficult are usually bored, underestimated, intelligent animals! Do you think a mathematician would be happy to watch infants all day every day? Then why do we believe that an Australian Shepherd or Siberian Husky, dogs bred to work, would be satisfied by a half hour walk when you get home from work, after leaving them alone for 8 or more hours while you were there?

In the same regard, I have heard and experienced many people do the following. Say that they want a dog to get them to be more active. I have said this before in my post on responsible ownership, rather than encourage you to get out more this dog will most likely do nothing more than frustrate you. Instead, if you are inactive, get a dog that might only need a short walk daily, not a marathon sprinter.

Does this mean that all energetic people need Greyhounds and Salukis and all couch potatoes need Bulldogs or Pugs? No! Many Greyhounds are happy as a clam to lounge on the couch daily so long as they get the opportunity to dash every once in a while and get to go on walks regularly. Many Bulldogs would be happy to take a long slow hike so long as you give them adequate sitting breaks.

I’m also not saying that apartment dwellers shouldn’t have energetic dogs. I am saying that if you are to get one, know the responsibilities that go into giving them the appropriate stimulation and exercise.

Mental training is great and treat puzzles can keep some dogs entertained and happy for hours! You can also have just as much fun as your dog through activities like competitive obedience or agility or flyball. There are countless games, puzzles, activities, and more that you can do with your dog.

Always, always, always take all of the necessary steps when looking to add someone to your family, which is what you are doing when you get a pet. One of those steps is determining what personality, energy level, size, and requirements your furry friend is going to need. Looking at breed is a great way to do this! There are some exceptions to this and dogs cannot be 100% judged by their breed. Every dog is individual and every dog has its own personality traits that cannot be fully predetermined by breed alone, but it is a great place to start!

The Yellow Ribbon Project – What you should know

The Yellow Ribbon Project – What you should know

This idea has been making the rounds pretty regularly over the past few months and so I felt it time for me to weigh in. The thought behind this is that a yellow ribbon, or a yellow collar or leash, will notify people around you that your dog needs space. To me, this is a wonderful idea. I believe that all people should give pets and people more room than they are already given, but that said I do recognize that having people do so might be asking too much. To have some way of notifying people for the dogs that specifically need more space would be a great thing to get off the ground. For those who are injured, frightened, young and training, or any number of other things, this would be a wonderful concept.

I am worried though. Worried that some might see this as not asking for space, but an admittance that their dog is dangerous or aggressive. That is not what this is about but I can see people viewing it as such. People will look at the yellow notice as a “Warning” sign, not a “Yield” sign. People will look at this as an admittance of guilt rather than as it should be, looking for patience and calm.

Do I believe this is reason enough to not attempt doing this in our neighborhoods and towns? No, I don’t. I think we should do what we can and get the people around us to look at this as it should be, to try. I believe that if we could get those around us to know what a Yellow Ribbon means, that the idea will spread beyond our friends groups and our neighborhoods. This image and idea has been circulating the internet dog world for months as I mentioned earlier, but it needs to spread beyond the dog world. We need to share it with our friends who don’t own dogs but maybe have kids, or with people who work in stores and parks. If people learn what it means, there is less of a possibility of people wondering and coming to their own conclusions about what it is.

National Puppy Day

National Puppy Day

Today is National Puppy Day and in honor of that I would love to give my big picture idea of what to do when bringing your puppy home and what you should have when you do.

Please see my post on Responsible Ownership if you haven’t already, where I talk about what goes into picking your puppy and some generalizations on the day to day with a puppy.

There are many things which people say are necessary when you bring home your dog. Here’s my list:

  • Long Leash – 6+ Feet (Great for recall training and explorative walks in the future)
  • Short Leash – 2 Feet or less (Great for leash training and walks)
  • Solid Collar – Primarilly for Identification
  • Head Halter or Front Connect Leash –  For leash training and more
  • Food Bowls – Metal, Glass, or Ceramic. Plastic bowls will hold flavors, hold bacteria, and can leach toxins into food and water
  • Crate and Bed- Big enough for the puppy to stand up and turn around comfortably. If the crate is too big the house training benefits of crating will be lost and they will eliminate and still have room to get away and sleep.
  • Quality Puppy Food – Talk to your veterinarian and do your own research to see what the best recommendations for your pet and your pets breed.
  • Quality Toys – Your dog will want and need to chew. It’s recommended to have many varieties of toys and feelings for your dog, and to rotate toys so that they don’t get ‘bored’ with them.
  • Quality Treats – You should have a variety of treats of different interest levels. Plain biscuits, soft smelly treats, freeze dried high value, and more
  • Clicker – This is optional but I feel it’s a very beneficial and helpful training tool.

Within I’d say the first two weeks or so of having your puppy I would recommend not trying to actively train. I believe that the best thing for this time would be to simply introduce your dog to a positive and negative word or sound. When they do something you want to encourage you can quickly click and treat while saying your positive word or sound and if they do something you don’t want to encourage you can say the negative word or sound and redirect them to something you want or like.

More on puppies to come in the next few days!

Dog Food Decisions

Dog Food Decisions

Before I begin here, everyone has the right to choose the proper diet for their own dog and for their own pets. What is important is to make informed decisions and to be sure that your pet is getting all of the nutrition they need.

Though some may like to make their dogs food on their own, I would not recommend doing so before consulting with your vet and doing a lot of research to learn about the nutritional needs of your dog. Thankfully there are countless dog food producers now who are doing wonderful jobs putting together great foods.

Here is what to look out for in a dog food product:

Real Meats – Though meat-byproducts are not always as bad as some make them out to be (heart, bone, lungs, skin, etc.) having real plain meat, preferable as the first ingredient, is indicative of a quality food.

Natural, Organic, or Holistic – Don’t let these words skew your decision. Their use is not regulated and have not been defined by the organisation who regulates animal food. The only word that you can use to help influence your choice other than the ingredients themselves should be “Human Grade”. This means that the ingredient is best of the best.

Corn: For years many have seen their dogs have irritation and skin problems which cleared up when they were switched from a food including corn to food without it. It has not been widely scientifically studied, though interest in doing such has been shown, but one would recommend that if your dog is itching and biting frequently to try food without corn.

Grain: In the same relation to corn as mentioned above, some dogs would benefit from grain-free diets. This would have been something quite difficult to achieve just a few years ago, but now you can find grain-free diets from even the big name dog food producers. I would recommend having a conversation with your vet before making any drastic changes to a diet or before choosing a grain-free diet from the get-go.

Another thing to think about when feeding your dog is whether you will stick with one food or if you should rotate their diet. A lot of favor has been put towards a rotating diet as it is very likely that such a diet will help broaden your dogs palette, especially if fed this way very early. This can benefit you because a dog fed one food only may be less likely to take to a different food in the future if you want to change or if the food gets discontinued, or even if the recipe for the food changes.

As with anything, be informed as much as you can about the things which you give your pet. If you would look at the labels on the processed food you give your family, or which you eat yourself, why would you blindly purchase something for your pet?

What NOT to Feed Your Dog

What NOT to Feed Your Dog

Countless people will tell you what kinds of foods you should feed your pet, but that’s a topic for another day. Right now I want to focus on some things that you shouldn’t be feeding your pet.

Firstly, here are some foods that are poisonous to most dogs and should be avoided.

  • Avocado
  • Bread Dough
  • Chocolate
  • Alcohol
  • Grapes or Raisins
  • Macadamia Nuts
  • Onions
  • Garlic
  • Pitted Fruits (Plum, Peach, etc.)
  • Artificial-Sweeteners (Specifically Xylitol)

If you believe your dog has ingested one of the items on this list please keep an eye on your dog. Call your vet but stay calm and explain what you believe has happened. They will be able to advise you as to what would be best.

Other Foods to Avoid, these aren’t as dangerous but follow the same procedure if you believe your dog has eaten any of the following.

  • Dairy such as Milk or Cheese
  • Coffee
  • Excess Fat
  • Raw Eggs and Meat (White, Red, Pork, Fish, etc.)

The last two mentioned above are controversial and here’s what I have to say and why I keep them on these lists.

Excess Fat: Many people have and do give their pets fat trimmings from their plates or before cooking the meat. What they don’t know is that in excess these trimmings can cause pancreatitis. This is a serious condition and should not be taken lightly. If your dog is not eating, lethargic, vomiting, and/or appears to be having a hard time breathing please contact your vet right away.

Raw Eggs and Meat:

These items can contain salmonella which is just as harmful to dogs as it is to humans. They also contain many enzymes and proteins which dogs cannot always properly digest, causing them to have stomach pains and distress. My one exception to my rule of no raw foods are the processed high quality freeze-dried raw treats and foods that are being produced by ingenious dog food makers such as Origen and Natures Value. These products are well controlled and monitored throughout the process and the freeze drying process is great at killing possible bacteria. Careful handling is necessary with these items though as they are still technically raw. Please wash hands carefully when feeding or giving treats that are freeze-dried raw.

Do you have things to add to this list? Do you know something which I have accidentally omitted or do you think I included something I shouldn’t have? Please comment below or tweet me @yourpositivedog